Tue, 22 Aug 2006
Day 2: Shanghai (上海) // at 21:00
After a day of travelling, last night I slept like a log, but surprisingly still managed to wake up around 7:30 this morning. Off to find something for breakfast out on a street stall before our first group event — subway and walk to the Shanghai museum. Temperature already up around 30°C as Jo and I headed off at semi-random around a few corners and bought a pastry-thing and a bun-thing from a street vendor.
The group met up around 9:30 for the walk over to the museum, I think
I was still confused about west and east and thought we were heading
in the opposite direction — towards the river rather than away
from it! The museum was far more interesting than most of us expected
— we didn't think we'd be there long but found we spent almost
an hour on the fourth floor just looking around at the exhibits and
costumes (we'd decided to start at the top of the building and work
our way down). Some fascinating calligraphy and scrolls — but
of course neither of us can read any of it. Nearly everything was
labelled quite well in English.
Ming and Qing furniture, a huge room full of bronzes, we skipped the exhibit of five thousand years of pottery and finally made it out around 12:30 to find that it was still hot, but had just finished raining.
With the afternoon free we took off on foot to the French quarter and found ourselves surrounded by construction work everywhere we went. Buildings listed in our maps simply did not exist anymore. A new park with a sign proudly proclaiming “4,936 families successfully removed to create this park” — we wonder where the families are now.
The old flower market is gone, one huge building site of rubble in its
place. Slight mis-reading of a map on the way back had us walk the
long two sides around a triangle, then successfully made it back to
Middle Hennan road on the metro — including a change of trains
and puzzling out the automated ticket machine. Simple things that
become suddenly complex in a new place and a foreign language.
Dinner by ourselves of “three mixed meats” and eggplant and
Chinese vegetables, then regroup at the hotel for a visit to the
acrobats. Wow! These are absolutely amazing people. Traditional
pole and rope climbing, running up poles as though they were stairs.
An incredibly flexible girl performing some sort of yoga/ballet will
holding five sets of lit candles, tying herself in knots and not
setting anything on fire. Hoop diving, plate spinning, a tacky
silk-rope show set to an over-the-top backdrop projection of music and
film from Titanic. Cyclists on eight bikes in formation, then eight
cyclists in formation on one bike! The climax of the show was the
motor cycles in “the wheel of death”. Completely crazy to watch
with one guy spinning around inside the ball, when the second bike
entered it was amazing, then it was three... four... five
motorbikes whirling around in a blur of two-stroke and noise.
Successful negotiation of the metro back to the hotel and then some very expensive beers outside on Funan road — the Chinese equivalent of Eiffel tower beer, RMB25 a bottle, 20 of which was for the seat and the view! Then back to the hotel, exhausted.

























